Autumn 2004

A Haunted County

Ghosts, ghouls, and things that go bump in the night? Well, whether you are a sceptic or a believer, stories abound that our own fair Bedfordshire is home to a clutch of extranormal manifestations. The sites range from old houses to open land, and whether they are haunted or not, they often warrant a visit on their own merits. I undertook my own ghost hunt, hoping to see for myself if rumours of spectres and ghostly presences were spurious fiction or if there was more to them than meets the eye…

My first port of call was Luton’s ‘Most Haunted Pub,’ The Lilley Arms. Located just a few miles north of Luton, in the village of Lilley, this three hundred year old pub has a distinguished history of hauntings. When I walk in, a man who says ‘he just helps out at weekends’ is happy to launch into a retelling of its most famous legend with gusto. It seems the primary spectre is a ghost named Old Tom, who regularly makes mischief about the pub, appearing and disappearing in front of both staff and customers at random. ‘He don’t like Christmas decorations,’ the storyteller proclaimed. ‘We had em in here for a TV show, and it showed the decorations on film, moving, just moving and falling down on their own.’ There are also tales of female ghosts, like an old maid and a Lady named Francis. Indeed, the pub displays a few newsletters that refer to its paranormal history. However, it seems that none of them are going to make an appearance for me, and I have to bid my goodbyes - a shame, because the Lilley Arms is a charming village pub with a nice garden, and the sun is shining, after all.

I thought I might have more luck with an outdoor venue, so I opted to try the Galley Hill in Luton. This hilltop is located on an intersection of two country walks, the John Bunyan and Chiltern Trails, on the border of Luton and Dunstable and earned its name through its use as a location for the hanging of vagabonds and ne’er do wells in times gone by. There are reports of chilling mists and glowing orbs and unsettling sounds and presences.

I walk to the top of the hill, past a large golf course, thronging with businessmen out for a few weekend holes. It’s busy and noisy, yet when I reach the top of the hill the noise just suddenly drops away. It was rather uncanny, and whilst I didn’t experience anything specific, I was taken aback at the sense of foreboding I felt on the top of that hill. It’s definitely worth a visit for those who are a little more active and willing to make the walk.

I leave Luton, a little unsettled, and head north. My destination is Ampthill, a short journey up and off the A6. The sprawling three hundred acres of Ampthill Great Park sit on the village’s south edge and are meant to be home to a regal knight and his steed. The last and most accurate factual account I came across was from 1965, which saw ‘the vague shape of a man on a horse who suddenly appeared from where the castle used to be and vanished near a small brook.’ The castle in question was known to have housed Catherine of Aragon, the mournful bride of Henry the 8th. I spend some time walking the grounds, taking special care to stray into secluded, ghost-worthy areas, but again I am unlucky. I take a moment in front of a memorial to Catherine. An old man wanders over, spies my notepad and enquires as to my business. When he finds out, he comes alive and professes to having seen the ‘strange and ghostly knight’ a number of times. He says that the more people come to see him, the more he’ll appear. ‘He’s always dressed in full armour - he wants to be seen, after all.’

I make a quick excursion to the nearby Houghton House. (Ampthill, about two minutes east, look for signs.) This stately home of old is now a ruin, crumbled and untended, and only the barest remains of its structure still stand. There are tales of ghostly figures here too, but the sun is shining and people are happily enjoying picnics. Whilst the ruins are indeed solemn, the place gets a mention for being a good location for a day out more than anything. I imagine it might be a scarier proposition in the moonlight, however.

Onwards to Woburn Abbey. The crypt area is said to play host to phantom monks, as well as the location that is now a sculpture gallery. I see no monks, alas, and no-one else I ask has either. Neither can I gain any confirmation of a supposed figure in Victorian dress who haunts the antiques centre. Nonetheless, there was something very calming and spiritual about the place, after I took a minute to get away from the gift shops and tourists, and I can certainly understand how Woburn might become a candidate for paranormal activity.

Bedford itself is home to a few hauntings. The Kings Arms pub is supposed to house the spectre of ‘A Young Man’ and the vengeful spirit of an executed highwayman is said to roam the junction of Tavistock Street, Union Street and Clapham Road, forever enraged by his unjust execution. Newnham Avenue in Bedford is home to a Methodist church that is said to be haunted. I only manage to make it to Tavistock Street et al, and alas, see no highwayman. A quick round of enquiries in nearby shops meets with only bemused looks, so I take my leave - again, I imagine a night visit may have been more evocative…

Finally, I pass back through the village of Millbrook (just west of Ampthill) where I’d read that the church is home to a spirit. When I arrive, it is serene and beautiful - no sign of any spirits, and it now being late in the day, I can’t get in for a look around. The only reason I mention it, in fact, is because I was so taken with the village itself - it’s definitely worth a look for those willing to take a more scenic route between Luton and Bedford!

In truth, there are any number of haunted sites in Bedfordshire - during my research I turned up a great many, and was only able to visit a relative handful. Furthermore, though I didn’t see anything myself, I certainly felt something in a couple of locations, and remain open minded to the possibility of there being more forces at work than what we can see or hear - if you are inclined to agree, then I heartily recommend that you plot and plan your own ghost-hunting tour - it makes for a great way to see the county with an added paranormal twist.

I would like to thank Andrew Fazekas of the Luton Paranormal Society (www.lutonparanormal.com) and Bill King (www.lcdonline.co.uk) for their assistance in recommending haunted sites. Anyone wishing to delve for themselves into Bedfordshire’s haunted history should start at their websites.